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Mexican Petunias (purple, pink & white) are quite easy to grow, they just need a minute to get established. 

Upon receiving your plants, remove them from the Ziploc bag right away. Place them in a cup of water, covering the roots and ensuring the leaves remain dry and out of the water. 

After your last frost date, place the cuttings in the ground. Dig a hole a few inches deep in a sunny location, and back fill with soil. Press the soil down lightly to ensure good contact and plant support. A partially shady location will be suitable, but the more sun the plant gets, the more flowers you will see!  Water the plants well, especially the first few days, continuing to water daily until you see new growth. New growth will occur not only in plant height and leaves, but additional stems will emerge.

As the plants get established, they will need less and less attention. Water during droughts and in extreme temperatures, or if they begin to wilt. No fertilizer is needed. They are tolerant of flood, drought, and many soil types.

The plants die off in cooler months, and they can be cut to the ground to remove the unsightly remains. They will come back in the spring in warmer zones (Zone 8 and below) with additional, stronger stems. 

 These garden markers are the last ones you will need to buy. We use them for all of our labeled plants. You can write on them with pencil, crayon, nursery marker, paint pen, or grease pen, but we recommend labels (Brother P-Touch Labels) for a long term solution. Simply label the plant in whichever way you choose, and stick the double posts several inches in the ground to remember exactly what you put beneath that soil.  

We don't have much direction on what to do with your earrings, but here is some general guidance on what not to do to keep your jewelry clean and shiny!

The S's to Avoid for Proper Jewelry Care

Showers / Soaps / Scrubs

Sprays

Soil / Sun / Sunscreen

Sweat / Swimming

Sleep

Sports

These sugar scrubs are a treat for rough hands!

We recommend you wet your hands a bit to help spread the scrub around. Then, with your fingers, scoop a small amount out of your jar. Massage around your hands and fingers, even up to your wrists. Try them on your feet too! We do not recommend using these on your face or lips as the exfoliating properties are quite strong. When complete, just rinse off and you will be left with sweet smelling, smooth hands, or feet!

Mexican Petunias (purple, pink & white) are quite easy to grow, they just need a minute to get established. 

Upon receiving your plants, remove them from the Ziploc bag right away. Place them in a cup of water, covering only the roots and ensuring the leaves remain dry and out of the water. 

After your last frost date, place the cuttings in the ground. Dig a hole a few inches deep in a sunny location, and back fill with soil. Press the soil down lightly to ensure good contact and plant support. A partially shady location will be suitable, but the more sun the plant gets, the more flowers you will see!  Water the plants well, especially the first few days, continuing to water until you see new growth. New growth will occur not only in plant height and leaves, but additional stems will emerge.

As the plants get established, they will need less and less attention. Water during droughts and in extreme temperatures, or if they begin to wilt. No fertilizer is needed. They are tolerant of flood, drought, and many soil types.

The plants die off in cooler months, and they can be cut to the ground to remove the unsightly remains. They will come back in the spring in warmer zones (Zone 8 and below) with additional, stronger stems. 

CHECK MY LAST FROST DATE

Spring Bulbs Include; ________

These bulbs need a cool period to break out of dormancy, so these need to be planted in the fall, after it begins to cool down. 

Plant After First Frost

Planting Depth

Enjoy in the Spring

Flower seeds all have unique directions for best germination. Details are below for various seeds from Laura's Lilies. Let's review some definitions. 

Lifespan: Annual plants will grow for the season, and will not return. Some may self-sow, but the original plant has expired. Perennial plants should come back each year with proper care. They may also spread through underground roots or self-sowing.

Light: This describes the best location for the plants to thrive, as far as sunshine.  Full sun is 6 or more hours of sun each day, partial sun is 3 to 6 hours of sun each day, and shade is less then 3 hours of sun each day. 

Indoor Germinating Start: This is the recommended time to germinate the seeds indoors. Do this using peat pellets or other soil, planting at the recommended depth, and keeping moist with good light. This gives your plant a head start for the season. Harden off & plant outdoors after last frost date. 

Germination Time: This is how long is normally takes for the seeds to germinate under good conditions. This generally means 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Cooler temperature usually slow down germination time. 

Outdoor Seed Planting: This is the recommended time to plant the seeds if  you are direct sowing them outdoors. 

Depth: Plant the seeds at this depth for their best chance of germination and survival. 

Spacing: This is the recommended spacing to give the plants adequate room to grow properly. 

Succession Planting means staggering the plantings to extend the bloom/harvest season. 

It is important to you know your last frost date, as many of the seed instructions are based off of that date. Check below if you are unsure of your date. 

CHECK MY LAST FROST DATE

Lifespan: 

Light: 

Indoor Germinating Start: 

Germination Time: 

Outdoor Seed Planting: 

Depth: 

Spacing: 

Lifespan: Annual

Light: Full Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: 4-6 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Germination Time: 7-14 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: (Recommended) 1-2 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Depth: 1/4 Inch

Spacing: 9 Inches

Lifespan: Perennial

Light: Full Sun to Partial Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: 6-8 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Germination Time: 21-30 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: After Last Frost Date

Depth: 0 Inches (Surface)

- This seed needs light to germinate

Spacing: 12 Inches

Lifespan: Annual

Light: Full Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: (Recommended) 6-8 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Germination Time: 8-14 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: After Last Frost Date

Not Recommended with Short Growing Seasons

Depth: 1/8 Inch

Spacing: 8 Inches

Lifespan: 

Light: 

Indoor Germinating Start: 5-7 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Germination Time: 7-10 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: 

Depth: 

Spacing: 

Lifespan: 

Light: 

Indoor Germinating Start: 

Germination Time: 

Outdoor Seed Planting: 

Depth: 

Spacing: 

Lifespan: 

Light: 

Indoor Germinating Start: 

Germination Time: 

Outdoor Seed Planting: 

Depth: 

Spacing: 

Lifespan: 

Light: 

Indoor Germinating Start: 

Germination Time: 

Outdoor Seed Planting: 

Depth: 

Spacing: 

Lifespan: Perennial

Light: Full Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: 4-8 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Germination Time: 7-10 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: Late Fall, After a Few Frosts

Depth: 1/4 Inch

Spacing: 18-24 Inches

Note: Milkweed Readily Self Sows and Floats with Dandelion-Like Fluff

To Control Invasion, Remove Seed Pods Prior to Maturing

Note: Milkweed Seeds Must be Cold Stratified Before Planting Indoors

Lifespan: Perennial

Light: Full Sun to Partial Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: 6-8 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Germination Time: 7-10 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: Late Fall, After a Few Frosts

Depth: 1/4 Inch

Spacing: 18-24 Inches

Note: Keep Seeds in Refrigerator for 60 Days Prior to Planting Indoors to Simulate Winter Conditions

Lifespan: Annual 

Light: Full Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: 5-7 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Germination Time: 10-14 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: After Last Frost Date

Not Recommended with Short Growing Seasons

Depth: 1/8 Inch

Spacing: 12 Inches

Lifespan: Annual

Light: Full Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: 4-6 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Germination Time: 7-10 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: After Last Frost Date

Depth: 0 Inches (Surface)

- This seed needs light to germinate

Spacing: 12 Inches

Lifespan: Annual

Light: Full Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: Not Recommended

Germination Time: 7-14 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: After Last Frost Date

Depth: 1/2 Inch

Spacing: 6 Inches (Single Stem) & 18 Inches (Branching)

Note: Succession Planting Prolongs Blooming Season

Lifespan: Annual

Light: Full Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: 6 Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Germination Time: 7-14 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: (Recommended) After Last Frost Date

Depth: 0 Inches (Surface)

- This seed needs light to germinate

Spacing: 18 Inches

Lifespan: Annual - Self Sows Readily

Light: Sun to Partial Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: 8 Weeks Before Transplant Date

Germination Time: 4-7 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: Not Recommended 

Depth: 1/8 Inch

Spacing: 6 Inches

Note: Violas are Cool Temperature Flowers and Tolerate a Light Frost

They dislike the heat of the summers

Plant According to Desired Bloom Time (1-2 Weeks After Transplant)

Lifespan: Annual

Light: Full Sun

Indoor Germinating Start: 4 Weeks Before Last Frost

Germination Time: 3-7 Days

Outdoor Seed Planting: After Last Frost Date

Depth: 1/4 Inch

Spacing: 9-12 Inches

Note: Succession Planting Prolongs Blooming Season

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Many flowers can last a bit of time out of water, but you want to minimize it and hydrate them again as soon as possible. Flowers will suck water through their stems like a straw. After being out of water for a while, trim the end with sharp shears to open up the fresh veins which may have 'callused over' from drying out. You only need to cut a half inch to be effective. Also, make sure to cut at a 45 degree angle to maximize the surface area available to absorb water. Of course, place the stems in water immediately, and even cut under running water if possible. For most flowers , warm room temperature is best. Don't forget to cut off any remaining leaves below the water line, these will rot and create dirty water for your floral beauties, and can contribute to dehydration and shorter vase life.

Arranging your flowers does have somewhat of an art to it, but first we need to prepare the 'canvas.' Before working with the stems, prepare your vase with room temperature water, and flower food. These usually come in small packets, but  you can always try our own recipe. Mix according to the packet and use the right ratio of water. 

After we have the vase prepared, we can being creating our arrangement. After being out of water for a while, trim the end with sharp shears to open up the fresh veins which may have 'callused over' from drying out. You only need to cut a half inch to be effective. Also, make sure to cut at a 45 degree angle to maximize the surface area available to absorb water. Of course, place the stems in water immediately, and even cut under running water if possible. Don't forget to cut off any remaining leaves below the water line, these will rot and create dirty water for your floral beauties. 

The next step is to decide how you want to arrange your flowers. Do you want a vase which will be placed against the wall, or one with a 360 degree view? Keep this in mind as you place the stems. Here are a few florist theories to help you create your masterpiece; 

- Balance & Spacing: Ensure to balance the flowers on each/all side(s) of your center point, and spread similar flowers (varieties or colors) out from each other.

- Proportion: Make sure your flower size and stem length goes well with the vase. This is also a recommendation for placing vases through a home/office/etc. Big spaces need big arrangements or they can get lost in the room. 

- Pattern & Rule of 3: Use 3 (or an odd number) of each variety to create a full and balanced look. Spread the flowers out through the viewing plane. 

- Thrillers, Spillers & Fillers: Use thrillers as your focal flowers, these are the bigger or brighter flowers. Use spillers to fill the bottom area of your arrangement space. Finalize with fillers to allow space between your thrillers.

These arrangements are easy, and already 'designed' for you. We suggest you bring them home and let them adjust to their new environment for a few hours. At some point, before heading to bed, mix up for your flower food and some fresh water for your stems. 

Simply follow the tips for longer vase life below, and enjoy your flowers. 

Fresh cut flowers, frequent water changes, and flower food are the basics of long vase life. Your flowers will likely last 3-5 days with no care, but with proper care could double and triple that, with a vase life of up to 2 weeks. Here are some other tips on maximizing your flowers; 

- Keep them away from direct sunlight. 

Flowers may like the sun when growing, but after harvesting, it is best to keep them shaded. 

- Avoid drafts and breezes. 

Air flow is great for preventing mold and bacteria in the field, but drafts and constant air flow after harvesting is hard on the stems. 

- Maintain cool temperatures. 

Most flowers will last longer in cooler environments once cut. You can even put them in the fridge at night or when at work to preserve them as long as possible. Just be careful to avoid the fridge for a few special flowers like zinnias, celosia and balloon flowers. 

- Recut stems.

Even in water, stems may callus over. Recut them when you change the water and let them get a good drink. Cut just a bit off the bottom, a half inch should do, and cut at a 45 degree angle to maximize the surface area for water absorption. Remember to trim any leaves that may be below the water line to keep the water clean. 

- Remove spent flowers.

Various flowers will not last as long as others once harvested. This is natural. When flowers fade, they are no longer beneficial to your arrangement, aesthetically or via cleanliness. Pull them out to keep things looking good and prevent any bacteria rot in the water which could affect the other flowers. 

- Keep away from fruit. 

Fruits often release a  gas called ethylene which can cause flowers to age more rapidly. Keep your fruit and flowers in separate areas to maximize vase life. 

Who knew hair products would be the best answer for preserving dried flowers? Here's how to use them; 

Once you receive and arrange your dried flowers, hair spray is helpful to maintain color and increase durability. Use an aerosol version and spray lightly at several angles in small bursts. Avoid any dripping and let bursts dry between sprays as needed. 

After some time, dried flowers may gather some dust. Grab a hairdryer and set on the coolest setting, with the lowest air flow. Blow the flowers at several angles moving constantly to shake off and remove dust.